The History of Vietnamese Food
Vietnamese food first came to the US in the 1960s, and increased sharply in the mid 1970s after the end of the Vietnam war. The Evening Star newspaper in Washington, DC called restaurants “the most promising Vietnamese business.”
“It’s a kind of bizarre souvenir, a museum where GIs homesick for Vietnam go.”
Charlotte Observer, on The Saigon restaurant
Vietnamese restaurants were affordable, received less negative press than Chinese restaurants did at the time of their arrival to the US, and sometimes catered to soldiers who had fought in Vietnam and were nostalgic for their war days.
The Exoticization of Vietnamese Food
Some Vietnamese restaurants chose to alter their menus to suit American palettes, such as replacing rice noodles with rice, or including Chinese dishes that Americans were more familiar with. This trend continues even today, as seen at Pho 170 on Middletown’s Main Street, where the authentic Vietnamese food is interspersed with pad thai, fried rice, and other dishes that Americans are more accustomed to seeing.
In the Hartford Courant article Vietnamese Made Easy At Pho 75, pho is described as “mystifying,” and the phrasing “made easy” implies that Vietnamese food is inherently confusing or difficult.
Seven of Pho 170’s Yelp reviews mention “fried rice,” while 60 mention “pho.”
Food As Sharing Culture
Vietnamese food has often been framed as “exotic,” such as in this article about Pho 75. But unfamiliarity is not always a negative. Owner Kevin Nguyen says, “We love to introduce our culture to the guests here.” He walks “through every step of the way with customers… So even in an unfamiliar environment, you’ll feel comfortable.”
Nguyen is grateful for the life he was able to start in the US, and uses food as a way to share that joy with his community.
“I remember my first Thanksgiving… I remember food being piled on my plate: mashed potatoes, turkey, cornbread, chitlins, greens, sweet potato pie, and– eggrolls. Everyone praising Lan’s eggrolls as they dipped them in gravy. How I, too, dipped them in gravy.”
Vuong, On Earth We’re Briefly Gorgeous
Geographical Distribution of Vietnamese Restaurants in Connecticut
“Only the future revisits the past.”
Vuong, On Earth We’re Briefly Gorgeous
Most of the restaurants are centered around Hartford. East Hartford and West Hartford are the regions of Connecticut with the highest density of Vietnamese immigrants.
Vietnamese Population in Connecticut
East Hartford: 1.6% West Hartford: 1.6% Danbury: 0.4% New Haven: 0.1% Middletown: 0.1%
Their motto is “Never forget your roots.” They say food is “the best way to bring families together.”
Pho 501 started off as a continuation of a previous restaurant, “The Omelette House,” in 1992. At that point, Vietnamese food was very unfamiliar to American. They sold baguettes with eggs to US customers, and made pho on weekends for Vietnamese customers. Eventually, more and more people were curious about the pho, and began requesting it more and more until it became their entire business model.
“‘Drink,’ you said, your lips pouted with pride. ‘This is American milk so you’re gonna grow a lot. No doubt about it.’ I drank so much of that cold milk it grew tasteless on my numbed tongue.”
Vuong, On Earth We’re Briefly Gorgeous
